If there is one ingredient dermatologists mention again and again for visible signs of aging, it's vitamin A. But walk into a French pharmacy today and you'll find retinol, retinal (retinaldehyde), and plant-based bakuchiol, all promising similar results. Which one should you choose? It depends on your skin's tolerance, your experience with actives and your goals.
Retinoids in a nutshell
Retinoids are the family of vitamin A derivatives. In cosmetics, they help skin look smoother, more even and firmer, and they support the natural renewal of the skin's surface. Your skin has to convert cosmetic retinoids into retinoic acid to use them, and the number of conversion steps changes how strong — and how potentially irritating — each one is.
- Retinol → two conversion steps. Effective, well studied, the benchmark.
- Retinal (retinaldehyde) → one conversion step. Works faster than retinol at lower concentrations.
- Bakuchiol → not a retinoid at all, but a plant extract shown to give some similar-looking benefits with far less irritation.
Retinol: the reliable classic
Retinol is the most researched cosmetic vitamin A. It's the best choice if your skin is normal to oily, you've used actives before, and you want a proven path to smoother texture and fewer visible lines. Expect a short adjustment period: some dryness or flaking in the first weeks is common.
La Roche-Posay's Retinol B3 Serum combines pure retinol with niacinamide (vitamin B3) to help keep the skin comfortable while it adapts. It's a great starting serum for retinol beginners who don't have particularly sensitive skin.
La Roche-PosayRetinol B3 Serum — pure retinol buffered with niacinamide
Shop nowIf you prefer a single step at night, Vichy's Liftactiv B3 Night Cream puts pure retinol directly in a moisturizer — easy and efficient.
VichyLiftactiv B3 Night Cream with Pure Retinol — retinol in a cream
Shop nowRetinal: faster, and often better tolerated
Because retinal is one step closer to the form your skin uses, it can deliver visible results at lower concentrations. French dermatological brands — Avène in particular — have embraced retinal for sensitive skin, formulating it with soothing ingredients and thermal water. Choose retinal if retinol has irritated you in the past, or if you want a more advanced option without jumping to higher retinol percentages.
AvèneHyaluron Activ Procedure Retinal Lifting Cream — retinal for sensitive skin
Shop nowBakuchiol: the gentle, plant-based alternative
Bakuchiol comes from the seeds of the babchi plant. It isn't vitamin A, but studies suggest it can deliver comparable-looking improvements in fine lines and texture with fewer side effects such as dryness or redness. It's also stable in daylight, so it can be used morning and night.
Bakuchiol is a good option if you have very reactive skin, prefer a plant-derived routine, or are pregnant or breastfeeding and have been advised to avoid retinoids (always check with your doctor). Etat Pur's Bakuchiol 0.5% is a simple, targeted active you can add to your existing routine.
Etat PurPure Active Bakuchiol 0.5% — the plant-based alternative
Shop nowThe K-beauty approach: gentle, fermented retinol
Korean brands often take a softer approach, pairing low-dose retinol with hydrating and comforting ingredients. Beauty of Joseon's Revive Firming Moisturizer combines fermented retinol with ginseng and ceramides — a nice option for beginners who want vitamin A in a nourishing cream. For an even gentler retinol-like option, the Embryolisse Lait-Crème Concentré Retinol-Like brings the cult cream's comfort with a retinol-alternative complex.
Beauty of JoseonRevive Firming Moisturizer — K-beauty's gentle fermented retinol
Shop nowWhich one should you choose?
- First-timer with normal or oily skin: retinol, 2–3 nights per week to start.
- Sensitive skin, or retinol didn't agree with you: retinal in a soothing formula, or bakuchiol.
- Experienced user wanting faster visible results: retinal.
- Very reactive skin, or pregnant/breastfeeding: bakuchiol (check with your doctor first).
How to use vitamin A without irritation
- Start low and slow: two or three evenings a week, then increase as your skin adapts.
- Apply on dry skin after cleansing, then follow with a moisturizer.
- Avoid layering with exfoliating acids or strong vitamin C on the same night.
- Wear SPF every morning — retinoids make skin more sensitive to sun. Browse our sunscreens.
- Give it time: visible results usually appear after 8 to 12 weeks.
Frequently asked questions
Can I use vitamin C and retinol in the same routine?
Yes — just not at the same time. Use vitamin C in the morning under your sunscreen, and your retinoid at night.
What are the "retinol uglies"?
It's the slang term for the temporary dryness and flaking some people experience in the first weeks of using a retinoid. Reducing frequency and using a rich moisturizer usually helps.
Explore more targeted actives in our serums collection and our anti-aging edit.
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